FLOWERS WORLD

Evergreen Shrubs and Trees
With evergreen shrubs, avoid shearing to artificial
shapes. If the evergreen plant has a soft, feathery
appearance, do not cut it square or make a round shrub
out of it. Prune using the thinning technique, thus
keeping the natural shape of the evergreen. Remember,
the non-green portion of needle-leaved evergreen
branches does not normally put out new branches.
Therefore do not cut branches back to the old wood.
Reduce new growth annually, and when removing the
larger branches for thinning, cut close to the main trunk,
leaving no stubs. Heavy thinning is needed only every
few years.
With certain evergreens such as yews (Taxus), a new
flush of growth will occur in the early fall. Head back
these long shoots to keep the plants in shape.
Broadleafed evergreen shrubs are pruned in the same
manner as narrowleafed evergreens, by thinning and
heading back. Light pruning every year is preferred, but
heavy pruning every three years is acceptable. Rhododendron
species benefit from removal of flower heads
immediately after flowering. Most types, such as hollies,
pyracantha, azaleas, and euonymus, can be cut back
severely, but avoid cutting all the way to the ground.
Holly trees may be pruned at Christmas time.
To thicken the new growth of coniferous trees such as
pines, spruce, or fir, pinch out 1/2 of the candle (the new
growth) when it is approximately 2" long in the spring. Do
not use shears, since they damage the needles that are
around the candle and cause the cut edges to turn
brown. This gives the tree an unsightly appearance. Do
not top or remove the central leader, if the natural growth
habit of the tree is desired. (See Fig. 6.)
If the terminal of a pine or spruce has been lost, it is
necessary to aid the plant in growing a new terminal
shoot. Without assistance, a single terminal will probably
not be re-established, and multiple leaders will result. To
form a new terminal, bend one of the youngest lateral
branches near the terminal into an upright position.