FLOWERS WORLD

Large Trees
Proper pruning also helps to prevent injury and damage
to life and property. This usually involves the removal of
large branches or limbs from trees. Where tree limbs are
near power lines, call the power company and ask them
to remove them. Do not try to remove tree limbs from
power lines yourself.
Low-hanging branches may cause injury to individuals
mowing the lawn or walking on the street. Also,
branches sometimes rub against the house and roof. To
remove the branches that are over 1" in diameter, use
the double cut method. If the double cut method is not
used, the branch will tear and splinter the trunk. This
removes a large portion of the bark, causing a large
wound which calluses with difficulty and may further
result in permanent damage to the tree. (See Fig. 11.)
To double cut, first cut halfway on the underside of the
limb (about one foot from the tree trunk). Then (several
inches further out) make a second cut through on the
upper part of the limb (See Fig. 12). When the branch is
removed, there is no splintering of the main tree trunk.
Then remove the stub by conventional methods, taking
care not to cut into the collar. (See “General Pruning
Procedures”).
Beware of rejuvenation techniques sometimes used on
large old trees. Homeowners are sometimes “conned”
into having the tops of old trees completely cut back,
leaving only the stubs. These stubs eventually decay.
Also, since the tree is in such a weakened condition, it
may die prematurely. If you have large limbs that need to
be removed, secure the professional services of an
arborist. An arborist can drop work a tree, that is, lower

Evergreen Shrubs and Trees
With evergreen shrubs, avoid shearing to artificial
shapes. If the evergreen plant has a soft, feathery
appearance, do not cut it square or make a round shrub
out of it. Prune using the thinning technique, thus
keeping the natural shape of the evergreen. Remember,
the non-green portion of needle-leaved evergreen
branches does not normally put out new branches.
Therefore do not cut branches back to the old wood.
Reduce new growth annually, and when removing the
larger branches for thinning, cut close to the main trunk,
leaving no stubs. Heavy thinning is needed only every
few years.
With certain evergreens such as yews (Taxus), a new
flush of growth will occur in the early fall. Head back
these long shoots to keep the plants in shape.
Broadleafed evergreen shrubs are pruned in the same
manner as narrowleafed evergreens, by thinning and
heading back. Light pruning every year is preferred, but
heavy pruning every three years is acceptable. Rhododendron
species benefit from removal of flower heads
immediately after flowering. Most types, such as hollies,
pyracantha, azaleas, and euonymus, can be cut back
severely, but avoid cutting all the way to the ground.
Holly trees may be pruned at Christmas time.
To thicken the new growth of coniferous trees such as
pines, spruce, or fir, pinch out 1/2 of the candle (the new
growth) when it is approximately 2" long in the spring. Do
not use shears, since they damage the needles that are
around the candle and cause the cut edges to turn
brown. This gives the tree an unsightly appearance. Do
not top or remove the central leader, if the natural growth
habit of the tree is desired. (See Fig. 6.)
If the terminal of a pine or spruce has been lost, it is
necessary to aid the plant in growing a new terminal
shoot. Without assistance, a single terminal will probably
not be re-established, and multiple leaders will result. To
form a new terminal, bend one of the youngest lateral
branches near the terminal into an upright position.

Procedures for Pruning
Specific Trees and Shrubs
Deciduous Shrubs and Trees
Always allow a shrub or tree to develop its natural
shape, except when special effects are desirable, such
as for hedges. “Haircut” pruning should be avoided.
Perfectly sheared globes and squares make a mockery
of the plant’s natural form and beauty. (See Fig. 5.)
Instead, use the thinning technique on both shrubs and
trees. Cut the branches at different lengths, 1/4" above
an active bud. Remove twigs or branches selectively and
thus reduce overcrowding. Some stems should also be
removed at ground level. The length of new shoots
should be reduced 1/3 to 1/2 of their length, which
induces side shoots to develop.
Cutting above a bud prevents dieback of the stem and
encourages a new branch to develop from the bud. The
haircut technique causes a dense growth at the ends of
the pruned branches which shades the rest of the plant,
thus causing the plant to eventually develop a leggy
appearance. If a shrub develops a weak, dense growth,
thin out many of the smaller branches and twigs. This
promotes the vigorous growth of the remaining
branches. Also remove branches which tend to rub
against one another, opening wounds for the entrance of
disease.
Always remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches
and limbs from established plants as well as newly
planted trees and shrubs. The plant should then develop
new, stronger growth, free of diseases. Also, remove
dead flower branches, dead flowers, and old fruit stocks
as soon as the flowers have wilted or the fruit has
dropped. This stimulates new growth and helps to make
a stronger tree or shrub. It also encourages plants such
as rhododendrons to produce more flower buds for next
season

Pruning in Anticipation of Growth Stimulation
In general, except for the cases already cited, the best
time to prune is when the plant will recover the fastest.
Severe pruning should be done just before regrowth
starts in the spring so bare stubs will be hidden quickly.
Pruning in late summer should be avoided since it
stimulates succulent growth which may not harden
sufficiently to avoid winter dieback. Storm-damaged
plants should be pruned as soon after the damage
occurs as possible.

Pruning to Maximize Fruiting Display
Shrubs or trees that are prized for their fruit should be
pruned after the fruit drops or is eaten by wildlife.
Although they may flower early in the season, the fruit
should be allowed to develop. After the fruit has lost its
appeal, then prune. Examples of plants in this group are
certain viburnums and hawthorns.
Pruning Needle (Coniferous) Evergreens
To promote a compact plant, coniferous evergreens can
be pruned in late spring as the new branches elongate,
but before they become stiff. Otherwise, they, like
broadleaved evergreens, can be pruned whenever the
wood is not frozen. However, coniferous types will
generally not develop new shoots on older wood, so it
isn’t advisable to cut back beyond the living foliage
portion of the branches.
Pruning Trees Known as “Bleeders”
Some deciduous trees have an exceptionally heavy sap
flow in the early spring. If cuts are made then, the trees
will “bleed.” While this sap loss does not injure the tree, it
can be objectionable aesthetically and cause problems
for pedestrians, automobiles, etc., passing underneath.
“Bleeding” can be avoided by pruning in mid-summer or
late fall. Maple, birch, dogwood, elm, walnut, and
yellowwood are examples of trees best treated this way.

Times to Prune for Specific Purposes
Timing of pruning is based on the flowering, fruiting, or
growth habits of a plant, its tendency to “bleed,” and the
fact that pruning usually stimulates a flush of re-growth.
Most plants can be pruned at almost any time of year
without jeopardizing basic survival. However, it is
preferable to prune specific plants at specific points in
the year.

Pruning According to Season of Bloom
Trees and shrubs that flower before the end of June
should be pruned immediately after flowering. Flower
buds develop during the previous season’s growth, thus,
the flowers for the current year’s bloom developed last
year and overwintered in the bud. If pruned before spring
flowering, the flower buds will be removed, thus eliminating
flowering. Table 1 shows examples of plants which
should be pruned after flowering.
Other trees and shrubs, those which flower after the end
of June, should be pruned in winter or early spring
before new growth starts. These plants develop flower
buds during the spring of the flowering season. Examples
of plants of this type are shown in Table 2.
Certain plants may be lightly pruned both before and
after flowering. This often increases flower and fruit
production, and several may produce a second bloom
during the year. Table 3 shows examples of this plant
type.
In any of the foregoing cases, the timing of pruning is
based on common sense to maximize flowering of a
plant which was planted for its flowers. If your pruning is
timed such that flowering is sacrificed, it will not be
detrimental to the plant’s survival. It will simply mean a
loss of one season’s floral display

Myths About Pruning
There are a number of myths and misconceptions about
pruning which should be laid to rest.
Pruning is difficult. Pruning is straightforward if one
knows a little about how the plant grows and what it
should look like when the process is complete.
Plants will die if pruned at the wrong time of year.
Plants may be injured, but seldom, if ever, are they killed
by poorly timed pruning.
All pruning must be done during the winter. Actually,
many plants are best pruned during the growing season.
Topping shade trees will keep the trees from causing
damage to the home. Shoots which grow after
topping are weaker than the original limbs. They will be
more likely to split off and cause damage unless they are
removed every few years. Also, wood rots are more
likely to be a problem in topped trees, resulting in poorer
tree health and greater likelihood of limb breakage.
Removing a tree is a crime against nature. If a plant is
in the wrong place, from a functional or aesthetic viewpoint,
it is by definition a weed and can be removed. This
is especially true when a tree must be mutilated beyond
recognition to eliminate the problem it is causing.
Most trees need pruning. Actually, mature trees
seldom do. Young trees usually benefit because pruning
helps in establishing the basic branch structure and in
overcoming transplanting shock.
Hedge shears are all you need to prune shrubs.
Hedge shears are intended to prune hedges, only! Using
them on shrubs not intended as hedge plants destroys
the natural grace and beauty of the plants.
Anyone with a pickup truck and a chain saw is a
qualified pruner. Indiana has no licensure for tree
pruners, thus some individuals doing pruning work may
not be knowledgeable or skilled in proper techniques.
Never hire someone who stops and tells you that your
plants need pruning and that he will do it right away.
Obtain references, and see their work first!
All cut surfaces must be treated with tree paint.
While long recommended, the evidence is conflicting on
the use of tree paint. Largely, its use should be thought
of as cosmetic, helping to hide light-colored scars.

Reasons to Prune
Pruning is necessary to maintain a healthy, vigorous tree
or shrub. Specifically, pruning is practiced to:
Maintain or reduce plant size. Pruning can prevent a
plant from overgrowing its space in the landscape and
eliminates the need for drastic cutting of crowded,
overgrown plants. It can allow for growth of plants under
or adjacent to the pruned plant. It can also serve to
reduce leaf area on newly planted trees and shrubs. This
promotes survival through transplanting and consequent
root loss.
Remove undesirable growth. Pruning can encourage
plant vigor through the removal of weak, overcrowded
growth. Such thinning often improves the visual balance
or symmetry of the plant.
Remove dead, diseased, or broken branches. Pruning
will aid in maintaining the shape, vigor, and health of
the plant.
Stimulate flowering and fruiting. Removal of the
current year’s old, faded flowers and fruit clusters will
promote flower buds for the following season.
Rejuvenate and restore old plants to vigorous
growth. Proper pruning can restore a youthful, natural
growth habit in certain overgrown shrubs.
Prevent damage to life and property. Pruning can
minimize the hazard of limbs interfering with power lines
or overgrowing structures. It can also remove weak
crotches before limbs break in strong winds and open
blocked sight lines caused by overhanging limbs at
driveways or street corners.
Shape plants in an artificial form. Pruning and shearing
can be used to shape plants as hedges or for rigidly
formal espaliers or topiaries

Correct pruning is an essential maintenance practice for
trees and shrubs in the home landscape. However, most
homeowners regard pruning with considerable, though
unnecessary, apprehension. Pruning is not difficult if you
understand the basics, learn why, when, and how to
prune.
Trees and shrubs should be examined annually for
pruning requirements. Too often, pruning is ignored for
several years. Then some trees and most shrubs
become overgrown and often weak, making drastic
pruning a necessity to bring the plant back to usefulness.
Regular pruning will help keep the plant in bounds and
keep its growth vigorous. To prune successfully, you
must 1) know why you are pruning, 2) be correct in your
timing, and 3) follow proper techniques using proper
tools: why, when, and how.

High School Preparation
High school students should prepare for college by completing
courses in advanced math, plant biology, chemistry
and horticulture. A minimum of two years of High School
Spanish is highly recommended. Summer jobs with a
greenhouse, golf course, nursery or landscaping firm are
beneficial.

Extracurricular Activities and
Student Exchange Programs
The School of Agriculture has numerous clubs and
organizations. Ornamental horticulture students have
their own club and Pi Alpha Xi Chapter. The ornamental
horticulture teams compete in the annual National Floral
Crop Quality Evaluation and Design Competition, and
North American Colleges and Teachers in Agriculture
(NACTA) Conferences. These opportunities allow students
to delve deeper into ornamental horticulture and travel
across the United States to interact with their peers from
other universities.Students in ornamental horticulture are encouraged to participate
in the National and International Student Exchange
Programs. These programs allow students to expand their
educational opportunities and learn about diverse peoples
throughout the globe. Participating in exchange programs
demonstrates to potential employers that you are willing
to go the extra mile.

Outstanding Career Opportunities
UW-Platteville graduates that have completed a major in
ornamental horticulture qualify for positions in landscape
design and management, greenhouse management, horticultural
therapy, plant breeding and genetics, plant tissue
culture and biotechnology, plant inspection, education and
research. Our job placement rates have been outstanding,
exceeding 95% since the inception of the program. Graduates
may also wish to further their education by pursuing
a graduate study.

Internships and Independent
Study Projects
Ornamental horticulture students are required to complete
on-the-job training (internship) while attending UW-Platteville.
Students must complete at least one, three-credit
internship during their undergraduate studies. Internships
are available at nationally recognized greenhouses, nurseries,
garden centers, botanical gardens and entertainment
theme parks. For example, several of our students have
participated in the student internship programs at Walt
Disney World Florida. Internships provide students excellent
practical experience while earning money and
college credits.
Students are also encouraged to participate in independent
study projects with faculty. These are typically research
projects in any area of ornamental horticulture or plant
biotechnology.

Emphasis Areas
The Business and Marketing emphasis was created for
students who wish to operate their own business or be a
manager of a large firm. Students in this emphasis complete
a minimum of 39 credits of ornamental horticulture
and plant science plus 21 credits in agribusiness, business
administration or computer science.
An emphasis in Professional Landscape Management
was created to meet the needs of students interested in
careers in landscape design, landscape maintenance or turf
science. Students in this emphasis complete a minimum
of 48 credits of ornamental horticulture and plant science
plus 12 credits in agribusiness, business administration,
computer science or agriculture mechanics and industrial
technology.
The Plant Breeding and Genetics emphasis was created
for students pursuing a career in plant breeding and molecular
genetics research, or interested in graduate study.
Students in this emphasis complete a minimum of 51 credits
of ornamental horticulture, plant science, genetics and
biotechnology plus nine credits in agribusiness, business
administration, computer science or communications

Faculty and Facilities
UW-Platteville has faculty that are knowledgeable in ornamental
horticulture and plant science, and recognized
for excellence in teaching. Courses for the ornamental
horticulture major are taught by faculty in the School of
Agriculture, Department of Biology, and Department of
Business and Accounting. Average class size ranges from
10 to 50, allowing instructors to become acquainted with
students and provide individualized attention. Students
majoring in ornamental horticulture are provided handson
practical experience and theoretical knowledge in the
classroom. In addition to teaching, our faculty advise
student organizations and judging teams, conduct research,
consult with businesses and provide horticultural advice
to the public.
Facilities at UW-Platteville include modern laboratories
for ornamental horticulture, plant tissue culture, soils
analysis and crops. Students are encouraged to become
actively involved in the operations of Pioneer Greenhouse,
a state-of-the-art 6,000 sq ft greenhouse complex, and the
development of Pioneer Gardens, a 30,000 sq ft collection
of theme gardens used for educational purposes and to
beautify our campus.

Requirements
Students in ornamental horticulture are required to complete
a minimum of 36-credits in ornamental horticulture, soils
and plant science. You can obtain a 60-credit Bachelor of
Science degree in ornamental horticulture by completing
the 36 credits of requirements plus one of the 24-credit
emphases (see emphasis areas below). However, if you
have other interests outside of horticulture, you may select
a minor in another area such as soil and crop science
(Agronomy), biotechnology, agribusiness, art, etc, or a
second major.

CCA Alternatives
So what will gardeners have to choose from for landscape
projects?
The EPA has approved alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ) for
use in garden structures.This product is higher in copper than CCA,
but is free of arsenic. No doubt, additional, environmentally friendly
products will be developed in the next few years.
Treated lumber alternatives include synthetic wood, made from
recycled plastic, vinyl fencing, and naturally rot-resistant woods such
as cedar and redwood. All of these will likely be considerably more
expensive than CCA-treated lumber was.
Non-lumber alternatives for building garden structures include
stone, concrete block, and brick.

What is Ornamental Horticulture?
Ornamental horticulture is a branch of the broad field of
horticulture that focuses on the art and science of floriculture
(greenhouse management and interior design), landscape
design and management, nursery management, turf management,
and the development of recreational areas for
public and private use.

Controlling Pests
Container garden plants are as susceptible to most insects and diseases as those grown in garden beds. However, using clean, pasteurized soil can avoid some soilborne disease and insect problems. You can pasteurize your garden soil by heating a pan of soil to 180oF and holding that temperature for 30 minutes. Semi-moist soil will heat more efficiently due to the production of steam. If your soil is dry, add one cup of water per gallon of soil and mix thoroughly before heating. Allow the soil to cool thoroughly before planting.
Inspect plants frequently for insects and disease symptoms on the leaves. Picking off insects as they are noticed is effective in controlling small-pest populations. Removing dead leaves, flowers, and overripe fruits will help discourage pests. In some cases, pesticides may be necessary to control or prevent pests from beating you to the harvest. If you use chemicals, be sure it is labeled for use on all plants in the container. Always read and follow pesticide labels.
Although they are not as much of a problem for container gardens as they are for garden beds, weeds can quickly take
over a container and compete with crops for light, water,
nutrients, and space. Before planting, refrain from using soil
from weed-infested areas. If weeds do appear in the container,
carefully pull them while they are still small and shallow-rooted.
Cut overgrown weeds rather than pull them to avoid injuring
the surrounding desirable plants. Herbicides are not practical in

Raised Beds
Raised beds help improve water drainage in heavy clay soils
or low-lying areas. Raised beds also bring the garden to a
height that is more workable for physically disabled or elderly
gardeners who cannot stoop or bend over to a flat garden bed.
Other advantages of raised beds include that they tend to warm
up earlier in the spring, which allows earlier planting. And once
the bed is constructed, foot traffic should not be necessary
in the bed, so the soil does not become compacted, and soil
preparation in the coming years is minimized.
Raising the soil just a few inches may be enough for some
gardens. No side support is needed for shallow beds less than
6 inches tall. For these smaller beds, prevent soil erosion from
water and wind by gently sloping the sides, making the top of
the bed slightly narrower than the base.
Deeper beds need wall supports to keep the bed intact.
Rot-resistant lumber, cinder blocks, bricks, or rock layers can
be used to support the sides of the bed. Beds deeper than 18
inches, particularly those built on poorly drained sites, may
require layers of drainage material at the bottom to ensure good
water drainage and to avoid compaction. Use crushed rock, pea
gravel, sand, or drainage tile if needed.
There is no standard size for a raised bed, but keep in
mind that you will want to reach everything in the bed without
stepping into it. A bed that will only be accessible from one side
should be no more than 2 feet wide, while a bed that can be
reached from both sides could be up to 4 feet wide.
As with container gardens, raised beds must have light, welldrained
growing media to provide proper aeration. Raised beds
can be improved by incorporating manure, compost, or other
organic materials as well as vermiculite or perlite. Commercial
potting soils or homemade mixes are ideal

Watering
Because container gardens have greater exposure to sun, wind, and heat, they need to be watered more frequently than a garden bed. Smaller containers may need to be watered as often as once or twice a day, depending on weather.
However, overwatering can be a problem if the soil is kept too wet too often. Feel the soil with your fingers, and then water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Be sure to use enough water so some excess runs out of the drainage holes. This will help ensure the entire root area is moistened. Peat moss is very difficult to wet once it becomes dry, so frequently check soilless media
Table 1. Suggested Container Sizes
Minimum Container
Size Per Plant
Crop (diameter at top in inches)
beans (bush) 6
beet 5
broccoli 8
brussel sprouts 8
cabbage 8
carrot 5
cucumber 10
eggplant 10
flowers, annual 6
greens 4
lettuce 4
okra 10
onion 4
parsley 5
pea 5
peppers (sweet or hot) 10
radish 4
spinach 4
squash 14
tomato (dwarf) 8
tomato (large) 12
turnip 8

Planting
Planting a container garden is much like planting a traditional garden bed. Seeds can be planted in rows or in clusters, depending on the size and shape of the container. Planting transplants rather than seeds, give plants a head start on the growing season.
Naturally smaller plants are better adapted to the confines of a container garden. But even large plants such as tomatoes, melons, and squash can be productive if given a large enough container. Many garden catalogs feature compact flower and vegetable cultivars that are more suitable for growing in containers or other small spaces. See Table 1 for suggested container sizes for selected plants.
Vegetables and flowers can be combined to create attractive planter displays. But when mixing different plants, keep in mind the light requirements of each. Most vegetables require a minimum of 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day for good production. Many flower species will also thrive in full sun, but there are a number of flowers that must have partial or total shade.

Growing Media
Lightweight, well-drained and well-aerated media is best for growing plants in containers.
Garden soil alone will soon become compacted in a container garden, leading to poor
aeration and water drainage. Many garden supply stores offer premixed potting soil or
soilless mixes and are ideal for small containers. For large-scale container gardening,
mixing your own media may be more economical.
Recipes for Growing Media
To make 1 bushel of soil mix, combine:
1/3 bushel of soil
1/3 bushel of organic matter
(compost, peat moss, well-rotted manure)
1/3 bushel of vermiculite or perlite
1/2 cup of fertilizer
(5-10-5, 6-10-4, or a similar fertilizer formulation)
To make 1 bushel of soilless mix, combine:
1/2 bushel of peat moss
1/2 bushel of vermiculite
1/2 cup of ground limestone
1/2 cup of superphosphate
1 cup of fertilizer
(5-10-5, 6-10-4, or a similar formulation)

Containers
Containers that can be used for gardening are limited only by your imagination. Clay,
wood, plastic, cement, and metal are all suitable materials for growing plants. Many items
around the house can be modified for use as plant containers such as pots, tubs, crates,
buckets, bushel baskets, whiskey barrels, tires, wheelbarrows, and hanging baskets.
Whatever the material, however, a good container must allow excess water to drain out and
provide sufficient space for roots to grow.
When excess water cannot escape the container, soil pores that should hold air will be
filled with water and roots will die from lack of oxygen. To provide drainage, drill three or four
small (1/4 inch) holes in the bottom of the container. Holes larger than 1/4 inch in diameter
will allow too much soil to escape. Placing a layer of gravel or broken pottery pieces on the
bottom of the container, below the soil, can help stop the flow of soil through larger holes.
Wood containers should be made of a naturally water-resistant wood (such as redwood
or cedar) or synthetic lumber (such as recycled plastic). If using chemically preserved
wood, choose lumber that has been pressure treated with a copper-containing product
such as alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ). Copper and zinc preservatives that are painted
onto the wood are less effective in preventing decay. Do not treat wood with creosote or
pentachlorophenol (Penta) because they are potentially toxic to plants, particularly when
grown in small, enclosed areas. See More About Treated Lumber for details.
Most vegetables and flowers have roots that go 2 to 3 feet deep in good quality soil,
but can be grown in shallower soils. Plants that have restricted roots will be smaller, less
productive, and may produce smaller-sized fruits. Small containers dry out more quickly,
requiring frequent watering. A container with a minimum depth of 10 to 12 inches is
recommended for most plants exposed to drying wind and sun.

T Aalsmeer Auction’s notes
he houseplants’ market for flowering plants,
but even more for green plants, is normally
improving during the month of January, but not this
year. Supplied quantities were not very big, but even
so, prices have been slightly lower. The same
market situation continued during the month of
February, with only a slight improvement during
Valentine’s week and during the week before
International Woman’s Day (8 March). This feast is
mainly celebrated in Russia and the other East
European countries. Most important used products
are the cut flowers and in particular the roses, but
also potted plants are more and more used. Of
course, mainly flowering plants and in particular the
red coloured types and varieties, such as
anthuriums, kalanchoes, pot roses, gerberas, but
even green plants, especially the medium sized ones.
During week number eight prices were best and this
lasted until the middle of week 9. After that, prices
of many products considerably decreased. Positive
exceptions could be made for: dracaenas, for both
margenta and marginata, bicolour types, the palm
types areca, kentia, livistonia, roebelinii, and
beaucarnea. Still, taking into account the period of
the year, prices are reasonably normal. Wether the
market develop more positively during the weeks to
come remains to be seen. It will, of course depend
very much on the weather, which so far was winter
like. Remarkable was the very early beginning of the
Woman’s Day campaign. It is said that this day has
become a mixture of Mother’s Day and Valentine’s
Day nowadays. The auctions’ selling and price
results of February have been published already and
they are very positive and satisfactory. The auctions’
total turnovers increased with 6.6%, but for
houseplants the percentage was slightly higher. The
positive results were not obtained with more
volumes, but just with higher prices. The garden
plants’ results have been slightly negative, mainly
due to the very cold weather this year.

T t all started very late, but finally the real
Valentine storm (of selling big quantities of
flowers) arrived just on time, and all turned out
positively. Valentine’s results have been good and
nearly the same as last year. No records have been
broken, but at the end everybody was very satisfied.
As traditionally, the roses were the best seller
number one. Normally, also carnations belong to
the best sellers, but this year it was slightly different.
Supplied quantities from Colombia have not been
very plentiful. It looks as if the production acreage
in this country is becoming smaller every other year.
Secondly, the carnation position, which is
traditionally a very strong product in England, is
about to be taken over by the roses. Also demand
for spray carnations has been lower this year. Still
they are sold nicely in super markets, mega stores,
and mail order companies, but the product has
become less popular in the traditional flower shops.
At the moment there is a great scarcity of daffodils,
an important spring product. It is said that the
productions in the south of the country will start
later as a result of the cold weather during the whole
month of January and a big part of February.
Hopefully, they will arrive on time for the
approaching Mother’s Day taking place on the 26th
of March. Preparations are already to be made by
importers and wholesalers.

A s expected before, the Valentine’s cut flower
demand, sales and results were very good and
considerably better than in previous years. As
traditionally, the roses have been the best sellers.
Prices were very high, but even so they have been
selling easily. The only one problem was that certain
special varieties from Ecuador were in shortage. On
the other hand, African roses were plentiful. Very
positive was the general quality level of the roses
this year, which has sometimes been problematic in
previous years. Other very good results were
obtained with heliconias, calla lilies (zantedeschia),
leucospermum cordifolium, and king proteas. Even
during the post-Valentine weeks the market
remained rather good and steady, in spite of the fact
that the winter holidays and the carnival were taking
place, while normally the market is much slower and
quieter during these events. As from the end of the
month, the supplied assortment has become wider,
since the so-called spring flowers

Finally, Valentine’s Day’s demand, sales and
results did turn out to be very good, and for
roses even excellent. Supplied quantities of all
flowers and in particularly of roses, were not big at
all. To the contrary, more of them could have been
sold had they been available. No quality problems
at all have been reported this year, neither in
products originating from the Netherlands, nor in
those imported from overseas supplying countries.
Right after the Valentine’s Day the cut flower
market did become calm and too quiet. The cause
was the winter holidays, when many people go on
winter sports, and the return of severe winter
weather, with very low temperatures and loads of
snow, even in the very southern parts of the
country. It was a strong winter this year, for a very
long period, until the end of February. Under such
circumstances it is always difficult to move and sell
fresh and perishable products. Remarkable was the
continuous scarcity and availability of the daffodils.
It seems that production in the producing countries
is late, which can be explained by the dark and cold
weather during the whole month of January.
However, most probably all will arrive to the market
just later. During the very last week of the month
the market has still been very slow and street sales
were almost impossible. On the other hand, flowers
originating from the Netherlands were extremely
expensive. This has, however a positive effect on
the flowers that are directly imported from other
overseas countries. These flowers are imported for
prices that are negotiated for a longer period of
time, and therefore they do not fluctuate that much.
V

Valentine Day’s cut flower demand, sales and
results have been very good and satisfactory,
especially for roses, chrysanthemums and orchids.
Traditionally, carnations are also very popular, but
this year it was different. Partly due to a certain
scarcity of Colombian carnations, partly due to high
purchase prices, and partly due some quality
problems, which were showing up in the previous
weeks. After quality problems have been noticed,
buyers always become a bit reluctant. During the
post-Valentine weeks the market became much
slower and quieter, which is a normal. Fluctuating
prices for Colombia and Ecuador roses were
problematic for good market results. Also Dutch
flowers’ prices were still very high, especially for
roses and chrysanthemums. They say it was due to
high demand in the countries where International
Woman’s Day (8 March) is celebrated. Normally,
there is hardly any special demand for Woman’s
Day in Spain, but this year was different. Good
demand, especially for chrysanthemums, bought by
former East European immigrants, living nowadays
in Spain. That was unexpected, but very welcome,
report traders. Luckily, the chrysanthemum prices in
the Netherlands have quite considerably decreased,
which made sales much easier. On the other hand,
other products such as: dendrobium orchids and
leather leaves have become scarce and too
expensive. New to the current cut flower
assortment in Spain are tulips, aconitum and asters

Mother’s Day and Valentine’s Day’s demand,
sales and results ended up very good and
satisfactory. Even though purchase prices were very
high this year, final sales went reasonably smoothly.
The general quality level of the flowers was good.
Roses from the Netherlands were of excellent
quality and the overseas imported roses only some
minor quality problems have been showing up. The
post Valentine’s cut flower market has been much
quieter and slower, which is nothing abnormal,
since the winter holidays took place during the last
two weeks of February. On the other hand, severe
winter weather came back with very low
temperatures and loads of snow until in the very
south of the country. Purchase prices became much
lower; not so much for roses, highly demanded for
the International woman’s Day in many other
countries, but for many other products, especially
the mini gerberas. At the end of the month it could
be very well noticed that spring was in the air. The
offered assortment really started changing,
especially towards the so-called spring or bulb
flowers, like tulips and daffodils.

After the very difficult and poor cut flower
market situation during the month of January,
all did improve very much as from the beginning of
February. Valentine’s cut flower demand, sales and
results have been very good and satisfactory,
reported traders. Supplied quantities have not been
very big, but just enough. Purchase prices were
extremely high this year, for both flowers
originating from the Netherlands and overseas
imported products. Especially roses and in
particular the red varieties were expensive. It was
mentioned in last month’s report that one shipment
of roses from Ecuador arrived delayed and
therefore some damage to the flowers caused quite
a loss. However, finally most of the flowers could
be sold for lower prices and only a minor part could
not be sold at all. Luckily, no other quality problems
showed up. During the post-Valentine week the
market remained steady, and prices were more or
less normal for this period of the year. However,
during week number nine prices for flowers,
especially for roses from the Netherlands, did
increase again quite considerably, as a result of
higher demand for the approaching International
Woman’s Day, took place on 8 March. Mimosa, the
Woman’s Day’s product number one seems to be
plentifully available this year ann for normal prices.

After a very calm and even poorer cut flower
market during the month of January, all really
started to improve, as from the first week of
February. During the second week of the month,
the real Valentine week, demand and sales turned
out very positive. However, not better when
compared to previous Valentine’s Days of the past
years. Some handicaps or disturbing factors this
year were the schools’ winter holiday time and the
cold weather, with minus temperatures during quite
some time. On the other hand, consumers have
been quite careful and even reluctant to buy flowers
and plants, due to the moderate general economical
situation nowadays. With the very high costs of
living and energy, people must compromise all the
time. During the post-Valentine weeks the market
became very calm and slow, which is normal for
this period of the year. It is waiting for springtime,
say traders.

The improvement of the Valentine’s cut flower
market did take place, but not as good as
during the past few years. The major given reasons:
the general economical situation, which is not at its
best at the moment, the cold weather, and the very
reluctant buyers, wholesalers and even consumers.
Most of the flowers were too expensive this year,
especially the roses. As traders say, roses were so
expensive that consumers change and buy other
things instead. Also the post Valentine’s sales were
not good at all; partly due to the starting winter
holidays, when people go skiing or to sunny and
warm resorts in other parts of the world. During
the last two weeks of February the market did not
recover at all. To the contrary: it was very quiet and
calm. Partly due the carnival celebrations, another
reason not to buy flowers. With the high demand
from certain countries in Eastern Europe and the
very high prices for many products, thanks to the
International Woman’s Day which is hardly
celebrated in the country, situation became even
more difficult. Consumers are just not prepared to
pay such high prices in this period of the year. Also
the weather has turned to real winter again. Low
temperatures and loads of snow make transport and
street sales extremely difficult.

Flower Auction’s notes
In the January monthly report it was mentioned
that Valentine’s prices were going to turn out
very good; but at that very moment it was not clear
yet how good. After all the flowers have been sold it
can be stated that Valentine’s 2006 prices and
results have broken all records. Even the turnovers
were higher, realized with considerable smaller
quantities this year, taking in account the pre and
the actual Valentine’s week together. Those lower
supplied quantities mainly from domestic
production and only but very slightly also of import
products. The explanation of the lower domestic
supplied quantities was the very cold and dark
weather throughout the month of January. Besides,
growers/producers try to save on energy costs,
which have become extremely expensive. Many
growers cannot effort taking such high risks
anymore, as long as the fuel cost is so high.
Retroactively, when prices turned out so high, they
realized they could have made some profits, even
with these high energy costs. Well, it is always easy
to conclude afterwards, but one has to plan the
production in advance, which is not easy. In the
actual Valentine’s week the total average price for all
flowers together ended up at 31 Eurocents per
stem, 3 cents higher than last year during the same
week. Absolutely much higher prices have been
achieved for roses. This year the total average price
for all tea roses together was 62 cents (last year 48
cents). For Grand Prix it was euro 1.65 (last year
1.24) For all small and sweetheart roses the total
average price was 20 cents (last year 14 cents).
Other products with much higher prices these year
were: anthurium, gerberas, helianthus, hypericum,
all lilies, except the longiflorum types, protea, and
wax flowers. Lower prices however for: anemones,
chrysanthemums, carnations, spray carnations,
leucadendron, lilies longiflorum, solidago and
trachelium. Tulip prices have been steady and
identical to last year. Remarkable this year was that
the prices have stayed high until the very last day
just before Valentine’s day. Even during the post
Valentines week the general price level remained
good. Only during week number 8 prices did
slightly slow down, while during week 9 they have
increased again, mainly due to the fact that demand
for the approaching International Woman’s Day
increased, especially for roses. Prices of several
other products however decreased, especially for:
gerbera, gypsophila, alstromeria, solidago,
chrysanthemums and helianthus. Finally results
obtained with the International woman’s Day have
turned out very positive and satisfactory. The VBA
Aalsmeer auction reported a turnover increase for
cut flowers of 4 million euros compared to the same
week of 2005, which was in increase of 14%,
realized just by higher prices. Demand from and
export to the following countries has been best:
Russia, Poland, Lithuania and Croatia. However
good results have also been realized in the
Netherlands, Italy and France. The turnovers of all
auctions in the Netherlands together during the
month of February are published and show a very
positive picture as well. A cut flower turnover
increase of 6.3% was realized with higher prices for
nearly all products.

Crop Selection
An important concept to keep in mind with field grown cut flowers is that your
crop selection and yield must be market driven, not production driven.
Unless you are near a large population centre, like the Fraser Valley, most
cut flowers are sold through niche markets, and therefore have a limited
demand. Excess volumes will only serve to lower prices. Determine a
flower's end-use to decide whether it’s an industry staple or a specialty-niche
market item. For example, is it used as a filler, or is it only used as a focal
point in wedding work? Another consideration is whether you want to sell
your crop as fresh or as dried flowers, or a combination of both. These
factors will help in your plans to settle on a crop mix, marketing venue, and
on the volumes the market might bear. There are many market options
available: the United Flower Growers’ Co-op, farmer’s markets, supermarkets,
garden centres, roadside or city stands, hotels, restaurants, craft stores,
florists, or as a pick-your-own. Depending upon your location and crop
choice, you may sell your product through one or more market outlets.
When deciding your crop mix, don’t overlook some of the more common
money makers. Novelty and specialty flowers are great, but the crop mix
should include some traditional items, even if they’re predominantly used as
fillers. Traditional crops and named cultivars are often easier to grow because
there is more production information available. On the other hand, if a
flower is found in most home gardens there may not be a high demand for it
in the regular growing season. Always be on the lookout for new and unusual
flowers. Spend your winters reading North American, European, and Japanese
seed catalogues and books on gardening and perennials. Remember to

introduce new species gradually to the market
place. Just because you think it’s the perfect flower
don’t expect Joe and Josephine Consumer to want
it in large volumes. Evaluate varieties not just by
their appearance, but also for other important
criteria like vase life, fragrance, hardiness and
drought tolerance.
Production factors to consider include:
• cost of production
• production per square metre
• the length and ease of extending the
production season
• resistence to pests
• stem length
• ease of harvesting
One final important consideration; be sure that you
can manage the cultural requirements of a new
crop. Local climate, the length of the growing
season, the number of frost-free days, and rainfall
will constrain your crop choice. Crops must not only
be able to grow in your climate, but they must also
suit your production techniques and anticipated
selling window. By growing a combination of annuals,
biennials, perennials, bulbs, woody cuts, and
ornamental grasses many growers try to achieve
staggered production and cash-flow. Table 2 examines
some of the advantages and disadvantages of
the various crop types and provides a partial list of
plants that can be used as cut flowers. More than
one botanical name appears for some plants due to
reclassification. If you plan to market the cuts as
fresh cut flower bouquets, there should be a broad
selection of species to provide a good mix of
colour, forms, and shapes throughout your marketing
period. But don’t overextend yourself by trying
to grow too many species. Start off slow and as
your knowledge and expertise expands, you can
then increase your crop selection.

The Emotional Niche – Both the Positive and the Negative
Can one really argue that positive emotion usually has survival benefits or conveys reproductive fitness? Despite early definitions of happiness or joy as a basic emotion, the continuing science of the evolution of emotion has emphasized the negative -- hostile and fearful emotions in animals and depression and hostility in humans (McGuire, 1993). A larger research literature reports on the stimuli that govern negative emotions as well as the patterns of response, secondary effects, and individual differences that emerge in their expression (for reviews, see Lewis and Haviland-Jones, 2000). It is clear that both plants and animals use defenses that elicit emotional fear or disgust reactions through the sensory modes of taste and smell, vision and audition. Snakes and spiders are not necessarily poisonous and the stinking, slimy mushroom may even be edible. It is not necessary that defense mechanisms be physically damaging, only that they produce an emotional reaction leading to avoidance or withdrawal. A plant or animal that can frighten or disgust a predator has gained fitness by exploiting an emotional niche. Withdrawal without physical contact is better than an active physical defense, which might lead to damage or death of the defending species. The ability to produce negative avoidant emotion in a predator has long been considered a possible defense and could be seen as the exploitation of an emotional niche.
That positive emotion could operate in a similar emotional niche has emerged recently but the evidence remains exploratory (Grinde, 2002; Seligman, 2002). Attraction mechanisms for plants have some socio-emotional features. For example, Hawk moths (Manduca species.) repeatedly visit Datura flowers (jimsonweed) for a hallucinogenic reward (Grant and Grant, 1983). Some species of orchids produce very little nectar and attract pollinators with perfumes. Orchid bees (Eulaema, Euplusia and Euglossa genera) collect perfumes/pheromones from these orchids into specialized pouches; they then use the perfumes as sex attractants. Other species of orchids mimic female sex pheromones and attract males who mate with the flower (Scheistl, et al., 1999). Interestingly, after “mating” the flowers then produce an anti-aphrodisiac pheromone (Schiestl and Ayasse, 2001). The well-known bower bird decorates its nest with flowers (Uy and Borgia, 2000). A number of bat-pollinated flowers emit a sulfur-like odor that mimics odors used in bat mating and social recognition (von Helversen, Winkler, and Bestmann, 2000). Many other plants provide non-nutritional chemical compounds, which insects can use for defense or sexual attraction (Weller, Jacobson, and Conner, 2000). There does not appear to be

A Brief History
In cultures around the world as far back in history as we have any records, flowers provided emotional information among peoples. Pollen was found in the graves of Neanderthals suggesting that the flowers had a place in the burial (Solecki, 1971), although the significance of the pollen is still in dispute (Sommer, 1999). Flowers are expected to convey sympathy, contrition (guilt), romance (sexual intent) or celebration (pride and joy) (Heilmeyer, 2001). Flowers are also used to express religious feelings and in some religions are considered the direct route for spiritual communication. (Stenta, 1930). Of course, some flowers are used for personal adornment, both the blossoms themselves and their essences in the form of perfumes. The vast majority of personal commercial fragrances have a floral top- and/or mid-note. In spite of some basic survival uses, such as edible or medicinal flowers, most flowering plants grown in the flower industry in modern times are not used for any purpose other than emotional. Floriculture crops in the United States accounted for at least 4.9 billion dollars in sales in 2001 (USDA, 2003). This amount seriously underestimates the floral economy because it does not include imports.
Evolutionary Psychology – ISSN 1474-7049 – Volume 3. 2005. - 105 -
An Environmental Approach to Positive Emotion: Flowers
Naive psychology argues that flowers are desired because of learned associations with social events. However, the ubiquity of flower use across culture and history and the lack of easy substitutes for the many uses of flowers suggest that there may be something other than this simple association. Flowers may influence social-emotional behavior more directly or may prime such behavior. That is, flowering plants may have adapted to an emotional niche.